Let’s be honest—you’re not lifting your Jeep just for looks. You want to cram bigger tires under it, smash through deeper ruts, and maybe flex so hard on your buddy’s stock Wrangler that they question their life choices. But slap on the wrong lift, and you’ll be dealing with death wobble, blown CV joints, and a wallet that’s lighter than your suspension. Here’s how to do it right.
Step 1: Know Your Goals (Be Honest)
- “I just want 35s and a mean stance” → 2.5″ spacer lift (cheap, easy, but don’t hammer it too hard)
- “I actually wheel this thing” → 3.5″ long-arm kit (smoother off-road, but costs more than your first Jeep)
- “I need to clear 40s for Moab” → 4″+ with axle upgrades (start saving now)
Step 2: Pick Your Poison – Lift Types Explained
1. Spacer Lifts (200−200−600)
- Pros: Cheap, installs in an afternoon, no driveline mods needed
- Cons: Rides like a covered wagon, limits articulation
- Best For: Pavement princesses who occasionally hit fire roads
2. Spring/Shock Kits (800−800−2,500)
- Pros: Better ride quality, more flex, keeps factory geometry
- Cons: Still stresses stock control arms on big hits
- Best For: Weekend warriors who hit moderate trails
3. Long-Arm Kits (3,000−3,000−6,000+)
- Pros: Glides over obstacles, reduces stress on components
- Cons: Requires cutting/welding, needs new driveshafts
- Best For: Jeeps that see more dirt than pavement
Step 3: Don’t Forget These Game-Changers
- Track bars: Adjustable front/rear or you’ll have a crooked Jeep
- Control arms: Fixed lengths = bad vibes. Get adjustable.
- Brake lines: Stock ones will stretch to their limits (ask how I know)
- Sway bar links: Longer ones or prepare for a tippy ride
Step 4: The Tire Size Sweet Spot
- 2″ lift: 33s (no rubbing, no regearing needed)
- 3.5″ lift: 35s (trimming likely, regear if you have 3.21s)
- 4.5″ lift: 37s (start upgrading axles if you wheel hard)
Step 5: Brands That Won’t Let You Down
- Budget but solid: Rough Country (their higher-end kits are decent)
- Mid-range kings: MetalCloak (best flex), AEV (OEM+ ride)
- No-limit ballers: Rock Krawler, Teraflex (for when money is no object)
The Hard Truths
- Death wobble isn’t from the lift – it’s from not correcting geometry
- Cheaping out costs more later (ask about my $800 track bar lesson)
- Bigger isn’t always better – a well-built 2.5″ lift out-crawls a hacked 6″
